Like many of the other greatly polarizing fashion trends of the 80’s and 90’s, pleats came in hard and left even harder, despite the fact that your Granddad still rocks them. But like most polarizing fashion trends of the past, they’ve now come full circle and are beginning to make a not-so-long-awaited comeback. Big time.
From forward-thinking high-end fashion designers like Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang, and Lanvin to mass retailers like J. Crew, Zara, and Club Monaco, pleats are now a focal point of many of the newer, more modern collections. But don’t get those pleats all caught up in a bunch just yet, as these aren’t exactly your college professor’s pleats of yore.
No, these “new-age” pleats are cleaner and a lot more tapered, still maintaining a bit of that super-tailored look we’ve been seeing and wearing for the better part of the past decade or so, but adding more room and comfort in the process, echoing the trend of the more relaxed, casual style that’s been taking over the runways ever since athleisure began creeping its way into our ever-changing wardrobes.
Yes, the more formal, dapper styles we’ve been sporting these past few years are finally coming to an end, and the arrival of pleats is just about the final nail in that coffin. So, now that you know they’re back, it’s time to figure out how to go about wearing them.
First, the basics: As with any pair of pants, you’ll need to try on several pairs before fully committing. You’ll also need to figure out if you’re more of a single-pleat guy or double. Or maybe both? Are you looking for a more casual, everyday look or something a bit more formal? Pleats can be surprisingly versatile depending on how you wear them and what you wear them with, and if you follow some basic rules, you’ll be on your way to rocking them properly in no time.
The number one rule is, well, confidence. Yes, pleats are back, but if you’re reading this now you may very well be one of the first few in your circles to prove it, and that requires a level of confidence befitting a man who’s usually first to the plate.
The second rule is to try and make said pleats pop as much as possible. Rather than wearing them too low or covering them up with a long sweater or top, we recommend wearing them loud and proud. Pull them a bit above the waist and make sure that whatever top you’re sporting is properly tucked away inside them, thereby letting the pleats do all the work for your outfit. Or for a more casual look, feel free to do a semi-tuck and have a bit of your top hanging over.
Third, pay attention to the length and crop of the bottoms. This is key, as there’s a rather fine line between looking like you raided your Granddad’s closet (yes, that same one) and looking like you belong on the next Gucci runway, and much of that line is drawn at the bottoms. Whatever you do, make sure your pants aren’t draping extra material over your footwear. You want to either have them expertly cropped several inches above the ankle (yes, some sock or skin will show), or roll them up to give you the option of changing your crop depending on how you change said footwear.
Speaking of which, we’re not going to lie here—as much as we love a well-tailored pair of pleats with a kick-ass pair of loafers or moccasins, we’re kind of partial to rocking them with a pair of bright white kicks to really show off that casual yet classic look and style. It not only shows you know the deal, but shows you’re capable of making that deal (and any other) accordingly.
And finally, whichever pleats you land on, try and avoid keeping them up and steady with a belt, at least until they become a bit more mainstream. Instead, opt for a pair of suspenders or a tighter fit just around the waist to really let those pleats show. Remember, the key here is to make them pop, and any article of clothing and/or accessory that comes in the way of that is throwing off your game.
And that’s it! Three (or rather, four and half) simple rules to ensure you sport your newfound love of pleats better than any other pleat-wearing nerd or fashionista out there. So go on, put that Talking Heads album on and blast your preferred 80’s tune of choice—just remember, it’s not so much what you’re rocking as how you’re rocking it. Psycho Killer, Crosseyed and Painless, or even Burning Down the House, wear them with confidence and wear them well. And She Was!
